Tuesday, May 31, 2005

Did you know?

Measured by the number of billionaires residing, Moscow is second only to New York. Which turns out to be very controversial when you compare average incomes in respective cities: some $40,900 in NY and $7,200 in Moscow.

This strange income distribution has led to a twisted services infrastructure: [relatively] plenty of stuff for very rich and for low-income people, but pretty much nothing for "normal" middle-class. Fitness-club prices start around $1000 per year. The cheapest one-room (NOT one-bedroom) appartment with cracking walls and antiquated furniture on the edge of the city would cost $500 a month. Average bill in a nice restaurant amounts to $50 per person. Hugo boss suite that is sold at $200 in Milan would cost you at least a $1000.

On the other hand, you can survive at $200 a month - if you own an appartment, and many people do due to Soviet inheritance - by shopping in markets for food and chinese clothing and riding a metro.

One can only hope this will change soon, as more and more people move to higher incomes and affordable services shall appear. Otherwise this contrast may start looking pretty scary.

Monday, May 30, 2005

The end of the world

Happened in Moscow on May, 25th. That's when a power distributing station burned to ashes and southern half of the city along with several towns around submerged in darkness. "Light" and "World" sound the same in Russian - that's why the day has quickly caught a name as "The End of The World".

At least 20,000 people were trapped in subway trains. People in elevators nobody cared to count. Three-days supply of Sushi rotted in unpowered refrigerators. Traffic lights went black, so the roads turned into complete chaos for couple of hours until police managed to put a guy at each major crossroads. I have to say that traffic in Moscow is very anisotropic. That is, you can easily drive in one direction while spend 4 hours in a traffic jam going the opposite - at the same time. This day, it was multiplied tenfold.

Good thing I took a day off and everybody was going out of the nearest public park - which made my going into a no-brainer. The rest of the day I spent lying on the beach drinking Martinis and waiting when the havoc comes to an end and I'll be able to get home.

... The only thought that really scared me - thank God this didn't happen in winter ...

Vodka, bears and babushkas

It struck me as odd seeing that there are some quite interesting blogs about life in Poland, Yugoslavia and even Nigeria, while none about Russia. At least not that I could find - digging pretty shallow, I have to admit. Plus, the United Federation of Bloggers consists mostly of expats living in this or that country - while an insider's view may present a pretty different perspective on life.

Having thought all that, here I am - a Russian living in Russia, with stories about having fun and doing business in this [pick up pretty much any adjective] country.

Before we dive into any specifics, a short introduction is due. Currently, I live in Moscow, being employed by one of the largest multinational companies. However, I spent 25 years of my life in Siberia (no, it's not the coldest place on earth) and have traveled a lot both in Russia and abroad, having accumulated enough impressions to compare. Well, it's never enough.. but still. My grandfather comes from a small Serbian village, where I used to feed the sheep and milk cows as a kid, and then I went to Phillips Academy, Andover - the one that George Bush 41st president and, I am sorry to say, George Bush 43rd president had graduated.

But enough of that. For the start, I just want to say a couple of words about your typical Hollywood-style Russia image: vodka all day long, balalaikas in the restaurants, bears walking in the snow-covered streets with babushkas running away in awe. Well, here is the news: it's all long gone :) There are more Porsche Cayennes and Bentley Continentals in Moscow than bears in surrounding forests. The most popular cuisine is japanese - yes, sushi, being served almost everywhere - save for MacDonalds, but they may not hold much longer. IT-market is growing 35% a year with about 6 billion US dollar in total in 2004. That's 27 in 5 years. Oil.. Well, oil is a separate story in itself.

Living here is fun and sometimes difficult - but opportunities abide. I only hope I'll be able to show you some pieces of the puzzle - and always welcome your feedback!